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When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.